Understanding Fashion Scandals: Social Media, Identity, and Globalization

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Professor Annamari Vänskä (Aalto University, Finland) Dr Olga Gurova (Laurea University, Finland)

Understanding Fashion Scandals

Social Media, Identity, and Globalization

Professor Annamari Vänskä (Aalto University, Finland), Dr Olga Gurova (Laurea University, Finland)

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English

Bloomsbury Visual Arts
21 March 2024

History of fashion; Fashion & society; Advertising; Fashion & beauty industries

All publicity is good publicity? Perhaps not. In recent years, multiple local and global fashion brands have been called out for cultural appropriation, racism, misogyny, and even flirting with fascism.

Understanding Fashion Scandals is the first book to explore this changing landscape of contemporary fashion through case studies showing how ‘shock value’ lost its currency. The book focuses on the changes since the late-1970s and early 1980s, when brands like Calvin Klein and Benetton first used controversy as a promotional tool to build their brand identity, to the contemporary industry where avoiding social media backlash is critical to survival.

Analyzing the tactics brands including Burberry, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada adopt to avoid or mitigate scandals, Vänskä and Gurova map the fashion industry’s journey towards cultural sustainability.

By: Professor Annamari Vänskä (Aalto University Finland), Dr Olga Gurova (Laurea University, Finland)
Imprint: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Country of Publication: United Kingdom
Dimensions: Height: 234mm, Width: 156mm,
ISBN: 9781350248977
ISBN 10: 1350248975
Pages: 248
Publication Date: 21 March 2024
Audience: College/higher education , Primary
Format: Paperback
Publisher's Status: Active

Introduction The Two Types of Fashion Scandals Scandal as Politicization of Fashion Decolonizing Fashion Positioning Ourselves Epistemic Positionings Structure of the Book PART ONE THE FASHION SCANDAL—PAST AND PRESENT 1. Framing the Fashion Scandal: The Platformization of Fashion Visualization of Fashion Mediatization of Fashion Social Media and the Platformization of Fashion The Instagramification of Fashion 2. Fashion Brands Negotiating Identity Politics Cultural Approach to Brands and Branding Negotiating Identity Politics 3. Changing Strategies of Fashion Brands: From Shock to Scandal A Short History of the Fashion Scandal: Deliberate Shock Contemporary Shock: The Unintentional Scandal Social Media and New Identity Politics Dismantling White Privilege and Introducing Intersectionality to Fashion 4. Emotional Effects of Social Media on Fashion: Calling-out and Canceling Emotional Branding Emotional Reactions and Canceling New Cultural Intermediaries and the Creation of the Unintentional Scandal Consumers Empowered to Speak Up What if a Brand is Canceled? PART TWO CASE STUDIES 5. Russia Love is (Not Just) Love Feminist Resistance in a Conservative World Race Across Time and Space 6. Finland Maternity Clothes for 12-Year-Old African Girls Flirting with Fascists 7. Global Scandals Whose Identity? The Problem with “Cultural Appropriation” Casual Racism: “Eating with Chopsticks” Blackface and Structural Racism in the Fashion Industry “Mental Health is not Fashion” PART THREE THE RESPONSE TO FASHION SCANDALS 8. Just Don’t Do It! Corporate World Response, Part One: Corporate Social Responsibility Corporate World Response, Part Two: Brands as Political Actors Corporate World Response, Part Three: Diversity Officers Academic Response, Part One: The Danger of “Diversity Washing” Academic Response, Part Two: the “Glossification of Diversity” Academic Response, Part Three: Reimagining the Fashion Curriculum Political Response, Part One: Supply Chains and Human Rights Political Response, Part Two: Advocacy Groups Benchmarking Business Conclusion: A Call for Cultural and Social Sustainability PART FOUR EPILOG 9. The Counter Narrative Heidi Karjalainen, Finland Ervin Latimer, Finland Jahnkoy, USA Claudia Lepik, Estonia Muslin Brothers, Belgium Kristian David, Sweden Bibliography Index

Annamari Vänskä is Professor of Fashion Research at the Aalto University in Finland. She is the author of Fashionable Childhood (Bloomsbury, 2017) and the co-editor of Fashion Curating (Bloomsbury 2018). Vänskä’s work spans fashion as embodied culture and digitalization of fashion. She is currently the Deputy-PI of the consortium “Intimacy in Data-Driven Culture” and PI of the research project “Intimacy, Creative Work and Design,” funded by the Strategic Research Council at the Academy of Finland (2019-2025). Olga Gurova is a Senior Researcher in circular economy and consumer citizenship at Laurea University of Applied Sciences in Finland. She is the author of Soviet Underwear: Between Ideology and Everyday Life (2008) and Fashion and the Consumer Revolution in Contemporary Russia (2015). Gurova works on projects aimed at building an ecosystem of sustainable fashion through the enhancement of business models and consumer behavior in Finland and the Baltic countries, financed by Uudenmaan liitto and Interreg.

Reviews for Understanding Fashion Scandals: Social Media, Identity, and Globalization

"This is a fresh, updated and comprehensive book on the phenomenon of fashion scandals, which has gained media and consumer attention in recent years. The reader will find both rich case studies and an analysis of how fashion scandals deal with broader processes such as mediatization and cultural appropriation. -- Dr Marco Pedroni, University of Ferrara, Italy A thought-provoking read looking at an important dynamic within the contemporary fashion and advertising worlds. The authors not only interrogate a variety of scandals, but offer an important framework for understanding contemporary fashion communication. -- Dr. Myles Ethan Lascity, Southern Methodist University, USA This is a smart, rich and engaging analysis of fashion scandals as engines of media attention and as sites of everyday politics. Recommended reading for everyone interested in how fashion matters in the making of identities, cross-cultural connections and sustainable futures. -- Susanna Paasonen, Professor of Media Studies, University of Turku, Finland A timely and original introduction to the complex politics of the ""fashion scandal,"" investigated as a brand strategy in the age of global communication and social media. -- Hazel Clark, Professor of Design Studies and Fashion Studies, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA"