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The Intersection of Fashion and Disability

A Historical Analysis

Kate Annett-Hitchcock

$150

Hardback

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English
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
28 December 2023
The history of the fashion industry has been well written as it relates to people who conform to certain physical norms and cultural stereotypes, whereas the inequality in access to the world of fashion has been largely ignored. Despite this lack of coverage, much work has taken place over the centuries to enable people who live with disability to participate in fashionable culture. This book tells that story via perspectives of notable historical figures, events and movements, and continues the discourse with a look at some of the contemporary developments in clothing and fashion.

The Intersection of Fashion and Disability takes the long view, from early attempts to conceal ‘unsightly’ bodies of royalty and nobility via creative innovation through growing contemporary awareness of inclusive fashion and how future work can be driven by technology and cultural acceptance.

By:  
Imprint:   Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Country of Publication:   United Kingdom
Dimensions:   Height: 234mm,  Width: 156mm, 
ISBN:   9781350143104
ISBN 10:   1350143103
Pages:   256
Publication Date:  
Audience:   College/higher education ,  Primary
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Active
List of Figures Contributors Preface Foreword Acknowledgements Abbreviations Glossary 1. Establishing Significance Introduction 1.1 Purpose of the book: It’s a fashion story! 1.2 Medical and social models of disability 1.3 Framing of disability fashion history Summary 2. Underpinnings: Events Prior to 1800 Introduction 2.1 Setting the stage for the historical discussion 2.2 Pre-eighteenth century 2.3 Impact of the Age of Enlightenment: 1740-1800 Summary Boxed Profiles: Mrs. Morrell and Miss Hawtin 3. Improvisation and Innovation: 1800-1920 Introduction 3.1 The early to mid-nineteenth century Charitable Organizations 3.2 The late nineteenth century: Effects of war 3.3 The early twentieth century: War, therapy & industry Summary Boxed Profile: Lavinia Warren 4. Rehabilitation, independence & finally fashion: 1930s to early 1970s Introduction 4.1 Impact of work, World War Two and rehabilitation: 1925-1950 4.2 Academic and government funded research: 1950-1973 4.3 Independent designers-Research and practice: 1950-1960 4.4 Connecting research, outreach and small business through independence & civil rights movements: 1960-1973 4.5 Other activist efforts and government initiatives Summary Boxed Profile: Frida Kahlo 5. Individual appearance management between two Acts: 1973-1990 Introduction 5.1 Impact of the 1973 Rehabilitation Act 5.2 Centers and workshops Design Without Limits Center for Universal Design 5.3 Other relevant publications 5.4 The beginning role of retail Summary Boxed Profile: Sunae Park Evans, Senior Costume Conservator, Smithsonian Institution 6. Contemporary Design and Technology Introduction 6.1 The Americans with Disabilities Act 6.2 Fashion design developments in context 6.3 Design interviews Alexandra Palmer on Izzy Camelleri of IZAdaptive Lucy Jones of FFORA Grace Jun of OpenStyleLab Justin LeBlanc on Justin LeBlanc Design 6.4 Do we have a disability design process? 6.5 Harnessing technological developments Summary 7. A Story of disabled makers Introduction 7.1 Disabled makers in history 7.2 The legacy of disabled makers Summary 8. Tying it all together Introduction 8.1 Patterns of success 8.2 Tying it all together 8.3 Where we could be heading 8.4 Disability fashion history timeline

Kate Annett-Hitchcock is a Professor in the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, USA. Prior to this, she was on the faculty at East Carolina University, Virginia Tech and the Savannah College of Art and Design. Her research focuses on clothing for health and well-being; fashion entrepreneurship, and historical and cross-cultural inspirations in fashion.

Reviews for The Intersection of Fashion and Disability: A Historical Analysis

Infused in a historical context of adapted clothing designs, lies a recurrent reminder to each of us with disabilities that we deserve continued designs to assure our unadulterated inclusion in society. Kate’s decades of dedicated work will enable me, and other Occupational Therapy educators, to proliferate the future of dedicated and skilled therapists to join Kate’s efforts to promote a cultural change in the inclusion of all bodies, despite each person’s uniqueness. May the memory of my friend Birdie Minor continue to shine through many more women with disabilities as they advocate for disability rights adorned in clothing that allows them to feel whole. -- Paige Moore, Licensed Occupational Therapist and Adjunct Faculty at James Madison University and Mary Baldwin University, USA Marginalized fashion consumers are finally given voice in Kate Annett-Hitchcock’s hugely important book. This is fashion history as well as fashion present, the most timely analysis of fashion and disability that we all need to read. -- Dr Kate Strasdin, Senior Lecturer, Cultural Studies, Fashion and Textiles Institute, Falmouth University, UK


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