The Fashion Reader

Introduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Part I: A Brief History of Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters 1. From Prehistory through Byzantium — Abby Lillethun 2. Europe to 1700 — Linda Welters 3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700–1790 — Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell 4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790–1860 — Susan North 5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860–1910 — Cynthia Cooper 6. The Modern Era: 1910–1960 — Tiffany Webber 7. The Postmodern Age: 1960–2020 — José Blanco F. 8. Fashion Outside the West — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I Part II: Fashion Theory Introduction — Abby Lillethun 9. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture — Thorstein Veblen 10. The Habitus and the Space of Life-Styles — Pierre Bourdieu 11. The Fashion System — Grant McCracken 12. The Dressed Body — Joanne Entwistle 13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory — Sandra Niessen Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II Part III: Psychology of Fashion Introduction — Abby Lillethun 14. The Fundamental Motives — J. C. Flugel 15. Blue or Pink? That is the Question: Homophobia and Its Influence on the Gendering of Colour Symbolism — Eun Jung Kang 16. Shopping for Fashion — Carolyn Mair 17. Lacan and Fashion — Alison Bancroft 18. Spirited Individuality: Halloween — Pravina Shukla Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III Part IV: Fashion and Identity Introduction — Abby Lillethun 19. Dress and Identity — Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins and Joanne Eicher 20. All Out in the Wash: Convict Stain Removal in the Narryana Heritage Museum’s Dress Collection — Jennifer Clynk and Sharon Peoples 21. Subculture: The Unnatural Break — Dick Hebdige 22. 1980s and Beyond: Queering Fashion — Susan B. Kaiser 23. Islamic Fashion and the Global Islamic Revival Movement — Annalies Moors and Emma Tarlo 24. The Commodification of Ethnicity: Vlisco Fabrics and Wax Cloth Fashion in Ghana — Christine Delhaye and Rhoda Woets Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV Part V: Fashion: Space and Place Introduction — Linda Welters 25. Fashion in Peripheral Places: The New Zealand Story — Sally Weller 26. Travelling the Street Style Blogosphere: Amateur Photography — Brent Luvaas 27. Flagship Stores: Scaling Fashion’s Luxury Spaces — Louise Crewe 28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire — Wilbur Zelinsky 29. Nailed It: Producing and Consuming in Tokyo’s Nail Industry — Rebecca Scofield Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V Part VI: Politics of Fashion Introduction — Abby Lillethun 30. Fashioning the Colonial Subject — Barbara L. Voss 31. Khartoum at Night — Marie Grace Brown 32. The Soul Wide World: The “Afro Look” in South Africa from the 1970s to the New Millennium — Tanisha C. Ford 33. How White Became the Color of Suffrage — Einav Rabinovitch-Fox 34. Worker Rights, Factory Inspection, and Fashion — Richard McIntyre 35. Trade Policies and the Textiles and Apparel Industries — Arthur C. Mead Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI Part VII: Fashion and the Body Introduction — Abby Lillethun 36. The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing: A Brief History — Lars Krutak 37. Consumptive Corsetry and Romantic Fashion — Carolyn A. Day 38. Outcomes of Plastic Surgery — Charlotte N. Markey and Patrick M. Markey 39. Hair and Human Identity — Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry 40. Disciplining Corpulence: The Case of Plus-Size Fashion Models — Amanda M. Czerniawaski Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII Part VIII: Fashion and Art Introduction — Linda Welters 41. Fashion — Valerie Steele 42. Putting Artwear in Context — Melissa Leventon 43. Curating Chanel — Nick Rees-Roberts 44. One Work: Elsa Schiaparelli & Salvador Dalí: The Tears Dress (1938) — Ella Plevin 45. Dynamic Static — Nicole Archer Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII Part IX: Fashion, Media and Communication Introduction — Linda Welters 46. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis — Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 47. Film Stars as Fashion Icons — Pamela Church Gibson 48. Style Narratives: Sixties in the Twenty-First Century — Heike Jenss 49. The Celebrity as Designer of His/Her Own Fashion Brand — Marta Martina and Silvia Vacirca 50. A Global Discourse: The New Millennium — Kate Nelson Best Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX Part X: From Haute Couture to the Street Introduction — Linda Welters 51. The Dressmaking World — Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney 52. A New House, a New Femininity — Alexandra Palmer 53. Trickle Down, Bubble Up — Ted Polhemus 54. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood — Sonnet Stanfill 55. Connoisseurs of Trash in a World Full of It — Jennifer Le Zotte Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X Part XI: Design and Manufacture Introduction — Linda Welters 56. The Future of Fashion Forecasting — Regina Lee Blasczyk and Ben Wubs 57. Hedi Slimane and the Reinvention of Menswear — Jay McCauley Bowstead 58. At Work in the Vintage Archive — Jennifer Ayres 59. Luxury Indian Fashion — Tereza Kuldova 60. The Sweatshop, Child Labor, and Exploitation Issues in the Garment Industry — Liat Smestad Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI Part XII: Marketing and Merchandising Introduction — Linda Welters 61. Spectacle — Ginger Gregg Duggan 62. Surprise Ambush: The Unexpected and Unscheduled — Nilgin Yusuf 63. The A&F Brand/Story — Anne-Peirson-Smith and Joseph H. Hancock II 64. Disruptive Business Model Innovations in the Fashion Retail Industry — Byoungho Ellie Jin and Daeun Chloe Shin 65. What Is the Future of the Fashion Show? — Steff Yotka Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII Part XIII: The Fashion Business and Global Economics Introduction — Abby Lillethun 66. Made in ____ — Arthur C. Mead 67. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion — Teresa M. McCarthy Byrne 68. Contemporary South Asian Youth Cultures and the Fashion Landscape — Lipi Begum and Rohit K. Dasgupta 69. Moroccan Fashion and Economics — M. Angela Jansen 70. Used Clothing Markets in the Global South — Andrew Brooks Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII Part XIV: Sustainability and Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters 71. Textile Production — Leslie Davis Burns 72. The Filippa K Story — Kerli Kant Hvass 73. Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion: How Far Have We Come Since 2000? — Martin Bide Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV Part XV: Future of Fashion Introduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun 74. Amazon Has Developed an AI Fashion Designer — Will Knight 75. Sewing Up a Storm: How Robots and Other New Technologies are Shaping a New Era of Manufacturing — Kilara Le 76. Forecasting Fashion’s Future — Abby Lillethun and Linda Welters Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV Bibliography Index