Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (2nd Edition)

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Stanislaw Ryszard Massel (Inst Of Oceanology Of The Polish Academy Of Sciences, Sopot, Poland)

Ocean Surface Waves

Their Physics And Prediction (2nd Edition)

Stanislaw Ryszard Massel (Inst Of Oceanology Of The Polish Academy Of Sciences, Sopot, Poland)

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English

World Scientific Publishing Co Pte Ltd
05 February 2013

Oceanography (seas); Offshore engineering

Series: Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.

All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.

In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.

By: Stanislaw Ryszard Massel (Inst Of Oceanology Of The Polish Academy Of Sciences Sopot Poland)
Imprint: World Scientific Publishing Co Pte Ltd
Country of Publication: Singapore
Edition: 2nd Revised edition
Volume: 36
Dimensions: Height: 231mm, Width: 152mm, Spine: 43mm
Weight: 1.089kg
ISBN: 9789814460101
ISBN 10: 9814460109
Series: Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering
Pages: 692
Publication Date: 05 February 2013
Audience: College/higher education , Further / Higher Education
Format: Hardback
Publisher's Status: Active

Introduction; Interaction of Wind and Ocean Waves; Spectral Properties of Ocean Waves; Statistical Properties of Ocean Waves; Properties of Breaking Waves; Prediction of Waves in Deep Water; Prediction of Waves in Shallow Water; Freak Waves; Tsunami; Waves at Islands and Coral Reefs; Waves in Mangrove Forests; Wave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous Bottom; Wave Observations and Long-Term Statistics; Wave Measurement Techniques; Data Processing and Simulation Techniques.