Handbook of Museum Textiles, Volume 2

Preface xv 1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1 Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 2 1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 2 1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 3 1.4.1 Dimensional Changes 4 1.4.2 Change in Modulus 4 1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 5 1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 5 1.5.2 Fading of Dyes 6 1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 6 1.5.4 Light Ageing 7 1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 7 1.6.1 Temperature 7 1.6.2 Relative Humidity 7 1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 8 1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 8 1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 8 1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 9 1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 9 1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 9 1.9.1 Insects and Pests 9 1.9.2 Mold 11 1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 11 1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 11 1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 13 1.11.1 Alienation 13 1.11.2 Fire 13 1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 13 1.12 Avoiding Damages 13 1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 13 1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 14 1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 14 1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 15 1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 15 1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 15 1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 16 1.13.1 Moth Management 16 1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 16 1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 17 1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 18 1.13.2.3 Traditional Method 18 1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 18 1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 18 1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles 19 1.14 Conclusion 19 References 20 2 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23 Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu 2.1 Introduction 23 2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 25 2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 25 2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 26 2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 27 2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 28 2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 28 2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 29 2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 30 2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 30 2.4.1 Prevention Methods 31 2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 31 2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 31 2.4.1.3 Storage 32 2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 32 2.4.2 Remediation Methods 33 2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 34 2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 34 2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 34 2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 35 2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 35 2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 35 2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 36 2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles 37 2.6 Conclusion 37 References 38 3 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45 Hana Lukesova 3.1 Introduction 45 3.2 Optical Microscopy 46 3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 46 3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 47 3.2.1.2 Finishing 47 3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 48 3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 48 3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 48 3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 48 3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 49 3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 50 3.2.2.4 Finishing 51 3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 52 3.2.3 Digital Microscopy 52 3.3 Electron Microscopy 53 3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 53 3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 53 3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 53 3.3.1.3 Finishing 54 3.3.1.4 Dyeing 54 3.3.1.5 Quality 54 3.3.1.6 Degradation 55 3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 55 3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 56 3.4 Conclusion 56 References 57 4 Computational Structural Analysis 61 Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel 4.1 Introduction 61 4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 62 4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 63 4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 63 4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 65 4.3 Historical Textiles’ Modeling 67 4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 67 4.3.2 Finite Element Method 68 4.3.3 The Rheological Model 68 4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 70 4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 71 4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 76 4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 76 4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 77 4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 78 4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 79 4.5 Conclusion 79 Acknowledgement 80 References 80 5 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85 Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety 5.1 Introduction 85 5.2 Characterization Methods 87 5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 87 5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 89 5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 90 5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 90 5.2.2.3 Detectors 92 5.2.2.4 Limitations 93 5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 94 5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 96 5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 97 5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 99 5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 100 5.3 Printing Techniques 101 5.4 Conclusion 102 References 103 6 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107 Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He 6.1 Introduction 108 6.2 Dating of Textiles 108 6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 109 6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 109 6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 110 6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 110 6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 111 6.3 Molecular Analysis 112 6.3.1 DNA Analysis 112 6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 114 6.4 Proteomics 115 6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 115 6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 117 6.5 Isotopic Tracing 118 6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 118 6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 119 6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 119 6.6 Thermal Analysis 120 6.7 Optical Measurement Tests 121 6.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis 122 6.8.1 Mass Spectrometry 123 6.8.2 Chromatography 123 6.8.3 Electrophoresis 124 6.8.4 Microextraction 124 6.9 Conclusion 126 References 126 7 Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles 131 Anna Klisińska-Kopacz 7.1 Introduction 131 7.2 Sampling 132 7.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays 133 7.3.1 X-Ray Radiography 133 7.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence 135 7.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis 137 7.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction 139 7.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy 140 7.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 141 7.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy 143 7.5 Case Studies 144 7.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner 144 7.5.2 16th Century Carpet 146 References 148 8 NDT of Historic Textiles—Brief on Theory and Applications 151 Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose 8.1 Introduction 151 8.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy 152 8.3 Atomic Force Microscopy 154 8.4 Raman Spectroscopy 154 8.5 Computed Tomography 156 8.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy 157 8.7 Optical Microscope 157 8.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer 159 8.9 Carbon Dating 161 8.10 X-Ray Diffraction 162 8.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy 163 8.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 164 8.13 Conclusion 165 References 165 9 Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 171 Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo 9.1 Introduction 171 9.2 Photographic Methods 172 9.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR) 173 9.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence 173 9.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR) 174 9.2.4 False-Color Imaging 174 9.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging 175 9.3 Colorimetry 176 9.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy 177 9.5 Fluorimetry 185 9.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy 186 9.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) 187 References 187 10 Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 191 Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo 10.1 Introduction 191 10.2 Spectroscopic Methods 192 10.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS) 192 10.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS) 193 10.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman 195 10.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy 201 10.3 Chromatographic Methods 202 10.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC) 202 10.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) 204 10.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) 205 10.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry 206 10.4 Other Techniques 208 References 209 11 Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles 215 Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas 11.1 Introduction 215 11.2 NMR Spectroscopy 216 11.3 Mass Spectrometry 217 11.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 217 11.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy 218 11.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) 218 11.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF) 219 11.8 Transmission Electron Microscope 221 11.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis 221 11.10 DNA Analysis 222 11.11 Amino Acid Composition 223 11.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting 223 11.13 Chromatographic Techniques 225 11.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 226 11.15 Thin Layer Chromatography 228 11.16 Gas Chromatography 229 11.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy 229 11.18 Conclusions 230 References 231 12 Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles with a Focus on Tapestries 235 Rosa Costantini 12.1 Introduction 235 12.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries 236 12.3 Conserving Tapestries 237 12.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration 238 12.3.2 Current Display Methods 239 12.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques 239 12.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing 240 12.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques 241 12.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC 242 12.6 Conclusions 243 References 243 13 Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating 247 Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli 13.1 Introduction 248 13.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings 248 13.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets 252 13.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries 255 13.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes 258 13.6 Conclusion 262 Acknowledgment 263 References 263 14 Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS 267 Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair 14.1 Introduction 267 14.2 Materials and Methods 269 14.2.1 Preparation of Samples 269 14.2.2 Instrumentation 269 14.3 Extraction of Dyes 270 14.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) 270 14.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements 270 14.4 Result and Discussion 270 14.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample 271 14.4.2 Red Dye 271 14.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 271 14.4.4 Green Dye 273 14.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 275 14.4.6 Yellow Dye 275 14.4.7 Black Dye 276 14.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 278 14.5 Future Scope and Studies 280 14.6 Conclusion 280 Acknowledgment 280 References 281 15 Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum Conservation and Exhibition 283 Maria Cybulska 15.1 Introduction 283 15.2 Deterioration of Textiles 284 15.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles 285 15.4 Analysis of Fibers 285 15.5 Analysis of Threads 290 15.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects 292 15.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis 293 15.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles 294 15.9 Conclusion 299 References 300 16 Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation 303 Neven Fahim 16.1 Introduction 303 16.2 Documentation and Condition 304 16.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object 304 16.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study 305 16.2.3 Dating of the Object 305 16.2.4 State of Deterioration 305 16.3 Testing and Analysis 307 16.3.1 Morphological Study 307 16.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 307 16.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis 307 16.3.4 Analysis of Color Values 308 16.4 Results and Discussion 308 16.4.1 Stereo Microscope 308 16.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 308 16.4.3 FTIR Analysis 310 16.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements 312 16.5 Treatment Methodology 312 16.5.1 Humidification Process 313 16.5.2 Testing the Acidity 313 16.5.3 Cleaning Process 313 16.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning 313 16.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning 313 16.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support 314 16.5.5 Permanent Fixation 314 16.6 Conclusion 315 Acknowledgment 315 References 316 17 Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues 319 S. França de Sá, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita 17.1 Introduction 320 17.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings 321 17.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion 321 17.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC 322 17.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections 322 17.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections 324 17.2.4.1 TPU Coatings 327 17.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings 332 17.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions 335 17.2.4.4 Main Considerations 336 17.3 Experimental 337 17.3.1 Met Museum 337 17.4 Damage Atlas 337 17.5 Conclusions 341 17.6 Future Research 341 References 342 18 Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles 345 Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez 18.1 Introduction 346 18.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles 348 18.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 349 18.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 350 18.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 352 18.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices 354 18.4 Conclusion 356 Acknowledgments 357 References 357 19 Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums—Novel Approach 361 Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary 19.1 Introduction 361 19.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums 362 19.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums? 363 19.4 Digital Technologies—Tools and Techniques 364 19.4.1 Multimedia Materials 364 19.4.2 The World Wide Web 364 19.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing 364 19.4.4 Presentation Technologies 365 19.4.5 Simulations and Models 365 19.4.6 Microworlds and Games 365 19.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video 365 19.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities 365 19.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum 368 19.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS 368 19.5.2 Websites 369 19.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India) 370 19.5.4 Virtual Museums 370 19.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition) 372 19.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App 372 19.5.7 Roboguides 373 19.5.8 BYOD in Museums 373 19.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions 374 19.6.1 Pros 374 19.6.2 Cons 376 19.7 Conclusion 376 References 377 Index 379