Freak to Chic

""Gay"" Men in and out of Fashion after Oscar Wilde

Dominic Janes (Keele University, UK)

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English

Bloomsbury Visual Arts
23 February 2023

Fashion & textiles: design; Gender studies, gender groups; Gay studies (Gay men)

In this unique intervention in the study of queer culture, Dominic Janes highlights that, under the gaze of social conservatism, ‘gay’ life was hiding in plain sight. Indeed, he argues that the worlds of glamour, fashion, art and countercultural style provided rich opportunities for the construction of queer spectacle in London. Inspired by the legacies of Oscar Wilde, interwar and later 20th-century men such as Cecil Beaton expressed transgressive desires in forms inspired by those labelled ‘freaks’ and, thereby, made major contributions to the histories of art, design, fashion, sexuality, and celebrity.

Janes reinterprets the origins of gay and queer cultures by charting the interactions between marginalized freaks and chic fashionistas. He establishes a new framework for future analyses of other cities and media, and of the roles of women and diverse identities.

By: Dominic Janes (Keele University UK)
Imprint: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Country of Publication: United Kingdom
Dimensions: Height: 234mm, Width: 156mm, Spine: 25mm
Weight: 454g
ISBN: 9781350248083
ISBN 10: 1350248088
Pages: 312
Publication Date: 23 February 2023
Audience: College/higher education , Primary
Format: Paperback
Publisher's Status: Active

Dominic Janes is Professor of Modern History at Keele University, UK. He is a cultural historian whose specialism is the study of texts and visual images relating to Britain in its local and international contexts since the eighteenth century. He also teaches and researches on the wider histories of gender, sexuality and religion and is Professorial Fellow in the School of Fine Art and Photography, University for the Creative Arts, UK.

Reviews for Freak to Chic: ""Gay"" Men in and out of Fashion after Oscar Wilde

Clearly the product of long hours in the archives, Dominic Janes' Freak to Chic offers a rich array of queer images and texts from the popular press of the first half of the twentieth century to document the creative variety of non-normative embodiments of sex and gender in an era before now-accepted identity labels. * Christopher Reed, Pennsylvania State University, USA * [A] unique intervention in the study of queer culture. * Notches * From Oscar Wilde and Cecil Beaton to flourishing inter- and post-war queer cultures, Janes takes his reader through a fascinating and endlessly glamorous story of the freakishly chic manifestations that have helped to galvanize and vilify queer identity. Somewhere between the beautiful and the ugly, the respectable and the profane, the book offers keen insights into the elusive and radical potential of queer style. * John Potvin, Concordia University, Montreal * This lavishly illustrated book is a sophisticated and entertaining account of the Twenties interface between camp, fashion, identity politics, and flowers, featuring some of the era's most orchidaceous personalities. * Jane Stevenson, University of Oxford, UK *