Fashion, Identity, Image

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Paul Jobling (Parsons New School, Paris, France) Philippa Nesbitt (Ryerson University, Canada)

Fashion, Identity, Image

Paul Jobling (Parsons New School, Paris, France), Philippa Nesbitt (Ryerson University, Canada), Angelene Wong (Parsons New School, Paris, France)

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English

Bloomsbury Visual Arts
30 June 2022

Fashion design & theory; Cultural studies; Gender studies, gender groups

How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020.

Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele’s cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarède’s Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.

By: Paul Jobling (Parsons New School Paris France), Philippa Nesbitt (Ryerson University, Canada), Angelene Wong (Parsons New School, Paris, France)
Imprint: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Country of Publication: United Kingdom
Dimensions: Height: 234mm, Width: 156mm,
ISBN: 9781350183209
ISBN 10: 1350183202
Pages: 176
Publication Date: 30 June 2022
Audience: College/higher education , Primary
Format: Paperback
Publisher's Status: Active

List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction ‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion ‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and acceptance ‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion The authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’ Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue

Paul Jobling is the author of Fashion Spreads (Berg, 1999), Man Appeal (Berg, 2005) and Advertising Menswear (Bloomsbury, 2014). He was Visiting Professor between 2018 and 2020 for the MA Fashion Studies at The New School, Parsons Paris, France. Philippa Nesbitt graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. Her MA thesis explores the emergence and impact of gender non-conformativity in global fashion modelling and media. She is currently digital curator for Revue magazine. Angelene Wong graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. She is a doctoral student at School of Art, Design and Media at Nanyang Technological University, Singapore, and a dance artist. Her doctoral thesis focusses on body politics at the intersection of fashion media, dance, and digitalisation.

Reviews for Fashion, Identity, Image

Gives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New Zealand Utilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,