Fashion as Creative Economy

Micro-Enterprises in London, Berlin and Milan

Angela McRobbie (Goldsmiths, University of London, UK), Daniel Strutt, Carolina Bandinelli

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English

Polity Press
16 December 2022

Manufacturing industries

Fashion is under the spotlight like never before. Activists call for environmental accountability, and wide-ranging debates highlight exploitation across global supply chains and the reliance on unpaid labour. Digital technology undermines traditional fashion companies, while small-scale independent fashion designers provide radical innovations in design and work in more socially inclusive ways.

This book contributes to a new sociology of fashion. Focusing on the working lives of independent designers and based on ethnographic research and interviews carried out in London, Berlin and Milan, the authors consider the urban policy regimes in place in these cities. They analyse how these regimes shape the microenterprises and the emerging political economy, as well as the structures needed for designers to flourish. They also develop several key concepts – the ‘milieu of fashion labour’, ‘social fashion’ and ‘fashion diversity’ – and chart the new world of digital fashion-tech and e-commerce.

Drawing on lessons from European initiatives and recognizing the capacity of microenterprises and start-ups to determine fashion’s future, the authors call for the industry to be significantly decentralized to ensure more diversity and less exclusivity.

By: Angela McRobbie (Goldsmiths University of London UK), Daniel Strutt, Carolina Bandinelli
Imprint: Polity Press
Country of Publication: United Kingdom
Dimensions: Height: 216mm, Width: 137mm, Spine: 18mm
Weight: 272g
ISBN: 9781509553853
ISBN 10: 1509553851
Pages: 224
Publication Date: 16 December 2022
Audience: Professional and scholarly , Undergraduate
Format: Paperback
Publisher's Status: Active

Acknowledgements Introduction Fashion studies New ways of doing fashion The chapters Notes 1 Critical Fashion Studies: Paradigms for Creative Industries Research Introduction Cultural policy Milieu of labour Art theory The object itself Notes 2 London: Independent Fashion and ‘Monopoly Rent’ Introduction: The ‘futures’ student as human capital From the new King’s Cross to Hackney Wick Fish Island The milieu of labour: London Fashion independents: Making a living The precarity of success? Conclusion Notes 3 Berlin: Microenterprises and the Social Face of Fashion Introduction: The precarity of underemployment The milieu of labour: Berlin Fashion creativity in active neighbourhoods Social fashion in the city Fashion as art, fashion as social enterprise Conclusion Notes 4 Milan: Fashion Microenterprises and Female-led Artisanship Introduction: City of global brands The milieu of labour: Milan Benetton and beyond Female-led artisanship: Milanese small-scale fashion production Conclusion Notes 5 Click and Collect: Fashion’s New Political Economy Introduction: The new political economy The new world of ‘listing labour’ Designers in multimediated fashion worlds Ajax, Birdsong and Not Just A Label Conclusion Notes 6 Conclusion Appendix Berlin London Milan Events hosted Methodological note References Further Reading Index

Angela McRobbie is Emeritus Professor at Goldsmiths, University of London. Daniel Strutt is Lecturer in Media, Communications and Cultural Studies at Goldsmiths, University of London. Carolina Bandinelli is Associate Professor in Media and Creative Industry at the University of Warwick.

Reviews for Fashion as Creative Economy: Micro-Enterprises in London, Berlin and Milan

Fashion as Creative Economy is a brilliant, multilayered work that offers an unparalleled theoretical synthesis of the fashion industry. It makes effective recommendations for how this system can be transformed and made more just. Jo Littler, City, University of London This book is an important addition to both the scholarly literature and the public debates over the future of the fashion industry. David O'Brien, University of Sheffield