Exploding Fashion

Making, Unmaking, and Remaking Twentieth Century Fashion

Alistair O'Neill

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Hardback

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English

Lannoo Publishers
01 December 2021

Fashion & textiles: design; Textile design & theory

Unprecedented insight into the role of innovative pattern-cutting in contemporary fashion design.

Exploding Fashion examines the impact of innovative pattern-cutting in several key examples of 20th century fashion design. With over 200 illustrations, it 'explodes' designs by 6 game-changing fashion designers from the world's leading fashion houses, and reverse engineers them in order to understand how they work.

Written by a curator and professor at Central Saint Martins, London's premier college of art and design, this is the first comprehensive exploration of how a traditional design process can enter into a dialogue with new concepts, illuminating haute couture and prêt-à-porter methods for a visually-driven digital age.

AUTHOR: Alistair O'Neill is a writer, curator and professor of Fashion History and Theory at Central Saint Martins (UAL). He is a member of the UAL Photography and the Archive Research Centre and sits on the editorial board of Fashion Theory. Since the implementation of its contemporary exhibitions program in 2008, he has been working as a curatorial consultant for Somerset House Trust, focusing on its fashion exhibitions. His research interests include 20th-century and contemporary fashion; fashion photography in relation to visual culture; fashion curation and histories of display; London as a centre for fashion cultures.

SELLING POINTS: .

Unprecedented insight into the role of innovative pattern-cutting in contemporary fashion design .

Written by a professor at the world-renowned art and design college Central Saint Martins, and developed in collaboration with the fashion programme there .

Includes over 200 illustrations, including key dress designs, photo-collages, innovative pattern-cuttings, pencil drawings and installation views

180 colour, 40 b/w illustrations

By: Alistair O'Neill
Imprint: Lannoo Publishers
Country of Publication: Belgium
Dimensions: Height: 260mm, Width: 210mm,
Weight: 1.497kg
ISBN: 9789401476058
ISBN 10: 9401476055
Pages: 304
Publication Date: 01 December 2021
Audience: General/trade , ELT Advanced
Format: Hardback
Publisher's Status: Unspecified

CONTENTS Introduction The Rationale 8 The Process 12 Central Saint Martins Research Team Members 15 SECTION A: MAKE, UNMAKE, REMAKE Chapter 1: Methods and Making From 2-D to 3-D to 3-D animation 20 Chapter 2: Dress Summaries and Museum Statements International Dress Collections: Museum Statements 68 Victoria and Albert Museum, London - Claire Wilcox Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris 70 Myriam Teissier Twentieth-Century Fashion Designs and their Designers: Five Case Studies - Madeleine Vionnet 72 Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 86 Andrew Bolton Charles James 88 Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris 104 Miren Arzalluz & Véronique Belloir Cristóbal Balenciaga 106 Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology), New York 120 Valerie Steele Halston 122 Kyoto Costume Institute, Japan 138 Rie Nii Comme des Garçons 140 The Gusset: The Common Denominator 154 Dress Patterns 158

Alistair O’Neill is a writer, curator and professor of Fashion History and Theory at Central Saint Martins (UAL). He is a member of the UAL Photography and the Archive Research Centre and sits on the editorial board of Fashion Theory. Since the implementation of its contemporary exhibitions program in 2008, he has been working as a curatorial consultant for Somerset House Trust, focusing on its fashion exhibitions. His research interests include 20th-century and contemporary fashion; fashion photography in relation to visual culture; fashion curation and histories of display; London as a centre for fashion cultures.