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European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry

Regina Lee Blaszczyk Veronique Pouillard

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Manchester University Press
07 February 2018
History of fashion; Social & cultural history; Fashion & society; Fashion & beauty industries
The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business. -- .
Edited by:   Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Veronique Pouillard
Imprint:   Manchester University Press
Country of Publication:   United Kingdom
Dimensions:   Height: 240mm,  Width: 170mm, 
ISBN:   9781526122100
ISBN 10:   1526122103
Series:   Studies in Design and Material Culture
Pages:   344
Publication Date:   07 February 2018
Audience:   General/trade ,  College/higher education ,  Professional and scholarly ,  ELT Advanced ,  Primary
Format:   Paperback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Foreword by Geoffrey Jones 1 Fashion as enterprise - Regina Lee Blaszczyk and Veronique Pouillard Part I: Reinventing Paris fashion 2 Recasting Paris fashion: haute couture and design management in the postwar era - Veronique Pouillard 3 LVMH: storytelling and organizing creativity in luxury and fashion - Pierre-Yves Donze and Ben Wubs 4 Reawakening the 'sleeping beauties' of haute couture: the case of Guy and Arnaud de Lummen - Johanna Zanon Part II: International connections and the role of retailers 5 Buying abroad, selling in Paris: the 1953 Italian fair at Galeries Lafayette - Florence Brachet Champsaur 6 Anonymous tastemakers: the role of American buyers in establishing an Italian fashion industry, 1950-55 - Sonnet Stanfill 7 The rise and fall of European fashion at Filene's in Boston - Regina Lee Blaszczyk 8 H&M: how Swedish entrepreneurial culture and social values created fashion for everyone - Ingrid Giertz-Martenson Part III: European fashion on the periphery 9 Competitiveness of the Japanese denim and jeans industry: the cases of Kaihara and Japan Blue, 1970-2015 - Rika Fujioka and Ben Wubs 10 Rhythms of production in Scottish textiles and fashion - Shiona Chillas, Melinda Grewar, and Barbara Townley 11 The 'ethical sell' in the Indian luxury fashion business - Tereza Kuldova 12 A bag of remembrance: a cultural biography of Red-White-Blue, from Hong Kong to Louis Vuitton - Wessie Ling Index -- .

Regina Lee Blaszczyk is Leadership Chair in the History of Business and Society, and Professor of Business History at the University of Leeds Veronique Pouillard is Associate Professor in the History of Modern Europe at the Institute for Archaeology, Conservation, and History (IAKH) at the University of Oslo -- .

Reviews for European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry

'After World War II, fashion became more than a unique combination of art, luxury, intellectual property and media. It came to blend technology, ready-to-wear and the internationalisation of national creations. This book does a superb job of showing European fashion as a creative industry that connects design, purchasing and retail on a global scale. It puts fashion at the centre of a new understanding of innovation processes at large. The shift in customers, from women to men, upper to middle classes, and to places beyond old Europe has not altered the momentum of fashion, which continues to redefine taste and trends without homogenising society.' Patrick Fridenson, Professor of International Business History, Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales, Paris 'Small, medium and large. European fashion encompasses a broad, global swath of the fashion system, from haute couture to fast fashion, and explores the interconnectedness of trade, finance and style. It is a welcome addition to the fascinating cross-disciplinary literature on fashion history demonstrating the kaleidoscopic complexity of the subject. History proves one size does not fit all.' Alexandra Palmer, Nora E. Vaughan Fashion Costume Senior Curator and Chair of the Veronika Gervers Research Fellowship in Textiles & Costume, Royal Ontario Museum 'The anthology provides a new insight into the history of fashion business and culture studies, proposing different angles of observation and a mix of various case studies [.] We can consider the book a successful first step in tracing a new pathway in fashion studies and a useful instrument for the research agenda of business history, marketing, management, and cultural history scholars interested in investigating the development of business and the culture of fashion.' Valeria Pinchera, Business History (2018) 'This much-needed edited collection offers focused, authoritative chapters based on the case study model used in business history, with the crucial additional consideration of cultural analysis. It joins other volumes in Manchester's Studies in Design, a series of single-author books and edited collections that consider their subjects, ranging from eighteenth-century British chinoiserie to corporate landscape, in cultural context [.] Books such as this are important in deepening the field of fashion studies and widening its focus.' Nancy Deihl, New York University, H-France Review, Vol. 19 (February 2019), No. 23 -- .


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