A cookbook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant.
The Roman Empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco restaurants A16 and SPQR, and executive chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, explore Central and Northern Italy's local cuisines and artisanal wines.
Throughout each of the eight featured regions, Accarrino offers not only a modern version of Italian cooking, but also his own take on these constantly evolving regional specialties. Recipes like Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise and Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta are elevated and thoughtful, reflecting Accarrino's extensive knowledge of traditional Italian food, but also his focus on precision and technique. In addition to recipes, Accarrino elucidates basic kitchen skills like small animal butchery and pasta making, as well as newer techniques like sous vide-all of which are prodigiously illustrated with step-by-step photos.
Shelley Lindgren's uniquely informed essays on the wines and winemakers of each region reveal the most interesting Italian wines, highlighting overlooked and little-known grapes and producers-and explaining how each reflects the region's unique history, cultural influences, climate, and terrain. Lindgren, one of the foremost authorities on Italian wine, shares her deep and unparalleled knowledge of Italian wine and winemakers through producer profiles, wine recommendations, and personal observations, making this a necessary addition to any wine-lover's library.
Brimming with both discovery and tradition,SPQRdelivers the best of modern Italian food rooted in the regions, flavors, and history of Italy.
By:
Shelley Lindgren,
Matthew Accarrino,
Kate Leahy
Imprint: Ten Speed Press
Country of Publication: United States
Dimensions:
Height: 262mm,
Width: 232mm,
Spine: 29mm
Weight: 1.327kg
ISBN: 9781607740520
ISBN 10: 1607740524
Pages: 304
Publication Date: 16 October 2012
Audience:
General/trade
,
ELT Advanced
Format: Hardback
Publisher's Status: Active
Introduction Ancient Information Highways La Strada del Vino La Strada della Cucina Roman Roads Via Appia—Lazio Via Salaria—Le Marche Via Flaminia—Umbria Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana Resources Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques Basic Recipes, and Ingredients Acknowledgments Index Recipes Via Appia—Lazio Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeño, and Radish Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring Garlic Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry Beans Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel Sauce Spring Lamb Lamb Ragù with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato Lamb Belly Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard Steamed Artichokes Pickled Swiss Chard Stems Via Salaria—Le Marche Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry Pepper Salad Baked Anchovies Passatelli en Brodo Lasagna Vincisgrassi Rabbit a la Villa Bucci Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine Granita Via Flaminia—Umbria Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish Gelatina Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle Tagliatelle d’Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black Truffle Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragù Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion Greens Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown Butter Suckling Pig Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen Chops with Prosciutto Sauce Blécs with Suckling Pig Ragù and Rapini Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots Prosciutto Sauce Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and Sprouting Greens Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema, and Pan Grattato Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy Seeds Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Stridoli Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy Speck Mushroom Risotto Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry Vinaigrette Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and Powdered Olive Oil Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia Fritto Misto Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and Burnt-Orange Sauce Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and Saba Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and Fontina Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consommé Bolognese with Egg Noodles Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and Eggs Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown Butter Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and Mimolette Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged Balsamic Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta Egg “in the Hole” with Mushrooms and Miner’s Lettuce Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy Prosciutto Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragù, Eggs, and Fontina Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes Chocolate Soufflés with Milk Chocolate Gelato Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli Granola Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and Cherries Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and Anchovies Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta Salata Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragù Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma
SHELLY LINDGREN is the wine director and co-owner of both A16 and SPQR. She has received a James Beard nomination for wine service and was named Best New Sommelier by Wine&Spirits. SPQR's executive chef MATTHEW ACCARRINO is the recipient of Star Chefs' San Francisco 2010 Rising Star Award. KATE LEAHY is a freelance writer and the co-author of A16 Food + Wine.
Reviews for SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine [A Cookbook]
Shelly Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino have composed a book filled with their inspirations based on Italian regional cuisine and wines. It gives us a powerful insight into what makes SPQR one of San Francisco's favorite restaurants. It makes me wish I lived close by. --Thomas Keller, The French Laundry Shelley Lindgren has done it again. First, there was her restaurant A16 and a stunning cookbook emerged from that still-marvelous restaurant. Then came SPQR. With the remarkable talent of chef Matthew Accarrino, it has become one of San Francisco's finest restaurants, bar none. If you haven't yet heard of SPQR and Matthew Accarrino, trust me, you soon will. This book shows why. --Matt Kramer, author and Wine Spectator columnist Matthew brings a sense of elegance and refinement to Italian cooking that seems at once natural and yet revelatory. There is a humanistic element to the cooking at SPQR that in concert with Shelley's wine service, creates a memorable and warm experience. I always look forward to returning. --Christopher Kostow, chef, The Restaurant at Meadowood I am a staunch traditionalist when it comes to Italian cuisine, yet I love Matthew Accarrino's modern Italian cooking at SPQR. His food is Italian in spirit but cooked in the region (paese) of California, using local ingredients, contemporary techniques, and infusing the food with soul and sophistication. Shelley Lindgren is my go-to goddess for Italian wine. A charming and delightful educator, she has extensive knowledge of Italian wine making and wine makers. But even more important, she seeks out little known wines from small regional producers. I learn and taste something new with every visit to SPQR. --Joyce Goldstein, chef, author, and culinary consultant With well-thought-out recipes and little known wine pairings, discover a perfect balance of contemporary flavor and technique with a soulfulness that is respectful of tradition. Through Matthew's passion and experience, SPQR will challenge you to become a better cook! --Rick Moonen, executive chef and owner of rm Seafood Praise for A16: Food + Wine: This is a cook's cookbook; it deserves a quiet season filled with long chilly nights, the ideal time to enjoy its gutsy dishes. --Gourmet