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SPQR

Modern Italian Food and Wine [A Cookbook]

Shelley Lindgren Matthew Accarrino Kate Leahy

$75

Hardback

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English
Ten Speed Press
16 October 2012
A cookbook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant.

The Roman Empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco restaurants A16 and SPQR, and executive chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, explore Central and Northern Italy's local cuisines and artisanal wines.

Throughout each of the eight featured regions, Accarrino offers not only a modern version of Italian cooking, but also his own take on these constantly evolving regional specialties. Recipes like Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise and Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta are elevated and thoughtful, reflecting Accarrino's extensive knowledge of traditional Italian food, but also his focus on precision and technique. In addition to recipes, Accarrino elucidates basic kitchen skills like small animal butchery and pasta making, as well as newer techniques like sous vide-all of which are prodigiously illustrated with step-by-step photos.

Shelley Lindgren's uniquely informed essays on the wines and winemakers of each region reveal the most interesting Italian wines, highlighting overlooked and little-known grapes and producers-and explaining how each reflects the region's unique history, cultural influences, climate, and terrain. Lindgren, one of the foremost authorities on Italian wine, shares her deep and unparalleled knowledge of Italian wine and winemakers through producer profiles, wine recommendations, and personal observations, making this a necessary addition to any wine-lover's library.

Brimming with both discovery and tradition,SPQRdelivers the best of modern Italian food rooted in the regions, flavors, and history of Italy.
By:   , ,
Imprint:   Ten Speed Press
Country of Publication:   United States
Dimensions:   Height: 262mm,  Width: 232mm,  Spine: 29mm
Weight:   1.327kg
ISBN:   9781607740520
ISBN 10:   1607740524
Pages:   304
Publication Date:  
Audience:   General/trade ,  ELT Advanced
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Introduction  Ancient Information Highways     La Strada del Vino     La Strada della Cucina       Roman Roads Via Appia—Lazio     Via Salaria—Le Marche     Via Flaminia—Umbria     Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia     Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige     Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia     Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta     Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana     Resources Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques     Basic Recipes, and Ingredients        Acknowledgments     Index       Recipes   Via Appia—Lazio    Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup   Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise   Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeño, and Radish   Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad   Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper   Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring Garlic   Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry Beans   Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel Sauce   Spring Lamb   Lamb Ragù with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato   Lamb Belly   Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce   Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard   Steamed Artichokes   Pickled Swiss Chard Stems     Via Salaria—Le Marche     Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus   Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry Pepper Salad  Baked Anchovies   Passatelli en Brodo   Lasagna Vincisgrassi   Rabbit a la Villa Bucci   Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine Granita      Via Flaminia—Umbria     Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish Gelatina   Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread   Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle   Tagliatelle d’Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black Truffle   Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragù   Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion Greens   Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown Butter   Suckling Pig   Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots   Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen  Chops with Prosciutto Sauce   Blécs with Suckling Pig Ragù and Rapini   Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots   Prosciutto Sauce     Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia     Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina   Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam   Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and Sprouting Greens   Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema, and Pan Grattato   Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy Seeds   Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans   Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone   Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige     Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe   Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Stridoli   Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy Speck   Mushroom Risotto   Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole   Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry Vinaigrette   Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and Powdered Olive Oil     Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia     Fritto Misto   Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and Burnt-Orange Sauce   Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and Saba   Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and Fontina   Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consommé   Bolognese with Egg Noodles   Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and Eggs   Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown Butter   Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and Mimolette   Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged Balsamic      Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta     Egg “in the Hole” with Mushrooms and Miner’s Lettuce   Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes   Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta   Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads   Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy Prosciutto   Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto   Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragù, Eggs, and Fontina   Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes   Chocolate Soufflés with Milk Chocolate Gelato     Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana     Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli Granola   Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and Cherries   Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and Anchovies   Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta Salata   Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata   Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto   Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter   Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragù   Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma

SHELLY LINDGREN is the wine director and co-owner of both A16 and SPQR. She has received a James Beard nomination for wine service and was named Best New Sommelier by Wine&Spirits. SPQR's executive chef MATTHEW ACCARRINO is the recipient of Star Chefs' San Francisco 2010 Rising Star Award. KATE LEAHY is a freelance writer and the co-author of A16 Food + Wine.

Reviews for SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine [A Cookbook]

Shelly Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino have composed a book filled with their inspirations based on Italian regional cuisine and wines. It gives us a powerful insight into what makes SPQR one of San Francisco's favorite restaurants. It makes me wish I lived close by. --Thomas Keller, The French Laundry Shelley Lindgren has done it again. First, there was her restaurant A16 and a stunning cookbook emerged from that still-marvelous restaurant. Then came SPQR. With the remarkable talent of chef Matthew Accarrino, it has become one of San Francisco's finest restaurants, bar none. If you haven't yet heard of SPQR and Matthew Accarrino, trust me, you soon will. This book shows why. --Matt Kramer, author and Wine Spectator columnist Matthew brings a sense of elegance and refinement to Italian cooking that seems at once natural and yet revelatory. There is a humanistic element to the cooking at SPQR that in concert with Shelley's wine service, creates a memorable and warm experience. I always look forward to returning. --Christopher Kostow, chef, The Restaurant at Meadowood I am a staunch traditionalist when it comes to Italian cuisine, yet I love Matthew Accarrino's modern Italian cooking at SPQR. His food is Italian in spirit but cooked in the region (paese) of California, using local ingredients, contemporary techniques, and infusing the food with soul and sophistication. Shelley Lindgren is my go-to goddess for Italian wine. A charming and delightful educator, she has extensive knowledge of Italian wine making and wine makers. But even more important, she seeks out little known wines from small regional producers. I learn and taste something new with every visit to SPQR. --Joyce Goldstein, chef, author, and culinary consultant With well-thought-out recipes and little known wine pairings, discover a perfect balance of contemporary flavor and technique with a soulfulness that is respectful of tradition. Through Matthew's passion and experience, SPQR will challenge you to become a better cook! --Rick Moonen, executive chef and owner of rm Seafood Praise for A16: Food + Wine: This is a cook's cookbook; it deserves a quiet season filled with long chilly nights, the ideal time to enjoy its gutsy dishes. --Gourmet


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