Dancing the Wave

Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

Jean-Etienne Poirier

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English

Shambhala Publications Inc
01 October 2003

Surfing, windsurfing, water skiing

An exuberant and evocative look at the joys and revelations experienced on a surfboard for surfers and nonsurfers alike.

There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean.

In

Dancing the Wave,

Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the ride, inviting readers to reflect upon the true place of human beings in the universe.

This book is for all board riders, for all those who are touched by the forces of the ocean, and for all those who wish to understand the boldness of surfers, who join power and elegance in that harmonious dance with the sinuous movement of the wave.

By: Jean-Etienne Poirier
Imprint: Shambhala Publications Inc
Country of Publication: United States
Dimensions: Height: 198mm, Width: 163mm, Spine: 13mm
Weight: 213g
ISBN: 9781590300602
ISBN 10: 1590300602
Pages: 176
Publication Date: 01 October 2003
Audience: General/trade , ELT Advanced
Format: Paperback
Publisher's Status: Active

Jean-Etienne Poirier is an avid surfer, skier, and skateboarder, as well as a journalist and cultural anthropologist. He has consulted for international aid organizations, and he lectures on travel themes and mountain climbing.

Reviews for Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

The ocean's presence is always in me; I never feel separate from it. Surfing is a martial art, a spiritual discipline of body and mind. In the sea, you always have to be ferocious, quick, and violent; and fluid and serene--as it is. You sound your own depths in the ocean.