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Riding the Iron Rooster

By Train Through China

Paul Theroux

$32.99

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English
Penguin
25 January 2001
Paul Theroux left Victoria Station on a rainy Saturday in April thinking that taking eight trains across Europe, Eastern Europe, the USSR and Mongolia would be the easy way to get to the Chinese border - the relaxing way, even. He would read a little, take notes, eat regular meals and gaze contentedly out of windows. The reality, of course, was very different.

In fact, Theroux experienced a decidedly odd and unexpected trip to China that set the challenging tone for his epic year-long rail journey around that vast, inscrutable land - a journey which involved riding nearly every train in the country.

'Wry, humorful and occasionally querulous ... as Theroux makes excruciatingly clear, travelling alone in the Middle Kingdom is not for the faint of heart or stomach' Time.
By:  
Imprint:   Penguin
Country of Publication:   United Kingdom
Dimensions:   Height: 197mm,  Width: 128mm,  Spine: 30mm
Weight:   352g
ISBN:   9780140112955
ISBN 10:   0140112952
Pages:   512
Publication Date:  
Audience:   General/trade ,  ELT Advanced
Format:   Other merchandise
Publisher's Status:   Active
"The train to Mongolia; the inner Mongolian express to Datong; train number 24; night train number 90 to Peking; the Shanghai Express; the fast train to Canton; train number 324 to Hohhot and Lanzhou; the iron rooster; train number 104 to Xian; the express to Chengdu; the halt at Emei Shan; train number 209 to Kunming; the fast train to Guilin - Number 80; the slow train to Changsha and Shaoshan ""Where the Sun Rises""; the Peking express - train number 16; the internatinal express to Harbin - train number 17; the slow train to Langxiang - number 295; the boat train to Dalian - number 92; on the ""Lake of Heaven"" to Yantai; the slow train to Quingdao - number 508; the Shandong express to Shanghai - train number 234; the night train to Xiamen - number 375; The Qunghai local to Xining - Number 275; the train to Tibet."

Paul Theroux was born in Medford Massachusetts, in 1941, and published his first novel, WALDO, in 1967. His subsequent novels include Picture Palace, winner of the Whitbread Prize for Fiction, The Mosquito Coast, and the hugely acclaimed, Kowloon Tong. His travel books include The Great Railway Bazaar and The Pillars of Hercules.

Reviews for Riding the Iron Rooster: By Train Through China

Now firmly established as a cognoscente of train travel, with tracks already covered in The Great Railway Bazaar, The Old Patagonian Express, and Kingdom by the Sea, Theroux climbs aboard this familiar vehicle once again and gets his stubs punched for a rail trip through China. By the time Theroux reaches the Mao Museum in Shaoshan, with a full line of complaints about sloppy latrines and bad food in tow, one has the distinct impression that the author has just about had it up to here with the adventure of train travel. However, once the business of shuttling to and fro Theroux's destinations is squared away, the same attention to detail, eye for the offbeat, and fluid style that characterized his earlier work come to the fore. Theroux's itinerary calls for a departure by rail from London and a series of hook-ups that eventually lead him, entirely by surface, to China. A currious side-effect of the plan involves Theroux as a temporary member of a tour party, and one of the unexpected pleasures is Theroux's dry observations about this happy little group slowly getting on each other's nerves. Once in China, Theroux strikes out on his own, though, and busies himself with uncovering a portrait of China after the Cultural Revolution. Despite a sense that China continues to occupy something of a technological time warp - spittoons, quill pens, and steam engines aren't merely being preserved there, they're still being manufactured - Theroux detects concrete signs in attitude, style, and mobility of a major loosening up, though a collective memory of the Cultural Revolution still hovers ominously. But the subtext here is Theroux's contention that travel writing is a form of autobiography, and it's his own character as much as China's that unfolds by the time he winds up his tour in Tibet. In the end, Theroux comes through on his claim that travel has little to do with the rituals of sightseeing; when he's told that Min Hong is unsuitable for tourists, our man heads straight for the place: engrossing, revelatory work from a seasoned pro. (Kirkus Reviews)


  • Winner of Thomas Cook Travel Book Award 1989
  • Winner of Thomas Cook Travel Book Award 1989.

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