Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology

Author Biography xxiii Preface xxv Acknowledgments xxvii About the Companion Website xxix Part 1 General Concepts 1 1 Basic Definitions. Claims. Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 3 Learning Objectives 3 Key Concepts 4 1.1 What Is Cosmetic Science? 5 1.2 Basic Definitions 8 1.3 How is a Product’s Intended Use Established in the US? 13 1.4 Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 14 1.5 Cosmetic Claims 15 1.6 A Special Category: Soap 27 Glossary of Terms 28 Abbreviations 30 References 30 2 Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients Used in OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 33 Learning Objectives 33 Key Concepts 34 2.1 Cosmetic Ingredients 35 2.2 Active Ingredients 55 Glossary of Terms 59 Abbreviations 61 References 62 3 Product forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 65 Learning Objectives 65 Key Concepts 66 3.1 Introduction 66 3.2 What is a Product Form? 67 3.3 Product Forms for Cosmetic Applications 68 Glossary of Terms 78 Abbreviations 79 References 80 4 Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 81 Learning Objectives 81 Key Concepts 82 4.1 Introduction 83 4.2 Food and Drug Administration 83 4.3 Personal Care Product Council 85 4.4 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 85 4.5 Federal Trade Commission 86 4.6 National Advertising Division 87 4.7 Environmental Protection Agency 87 4.8 International Fragrance Association (IFRA) 88 4.9 Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) 88 4.10 Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) 88 4.11 European Commission 89 4.12 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 89 4.13 Cosmetics Europe – the Personal Care Association 89 Glossary of Terms 90 Abbreviations 90 References 91 5 Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 93 Learning Objectives 93 Key Concepts 94 5.1 Introduction 95 5.2 Regulation in the US 95 5.3 Regulation in the EU 104 Glossary of Terms 108 Abbreviations 108 References 109 6 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 111 Learning Objectives 111 Key Concepts 112 6.1 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 112 Glossary of Terms 119 Abbreviations 120 References 120 7 Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States. INCI Names 121 Learning Objectives 121 Key Concepts 122 7.1 Introduction 123 7.2 Cosmetic Products 125 7.3 OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 130 7.4 INCI Naming 134 7.5 Do You Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug–Cosmetic Product? 136 Glossary of Terms 137 Abbreviations 138 References 139 8 Testing of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 141 Learning Objectives 141 Key Concepts 142 8.1 Product Development Cycle 143 8.2 Product Testing 144 Glossary of Terms 156 Abbreviations 157 References 157 Part 2 Skin Care Products 161 9 Skin Anatomy and Physiology 163 Learning Objectives 163 Key Concepts 164 9.1 Introduction 165 9.2 Structure and Function of Human Skin 165 9.3 Main Characteristics of Human Skin 172 Glossary of Terms 178 Abbreviations 180 References 180 10 Skin Cleansing Products 183 Learning Objectives 183 Key Concepts 185 10.1 Introduction 186 10.2 Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 186 10.3 History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 187 10.4 How Skin Cleansers May Affect the Skin 188 10.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 191 10.6 Basic Concepts of Skin Cleansing Products 191 10.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 195 10.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 211 10.9 Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 212 10.10 Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 216 10.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 231 10.12 Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 233 Glossary of Terms 234 Abbreviations 236 References 237 11 Skin Moisturizing Products 243 Learning Objectives 243 Key Concepts 244 11.1 Introduction 245 11.2 Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 245 11.3 History of Using Skin Moisturizers 246 11.4 How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin 247 11.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 249 11.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 249 11.7 Product Types 256 11.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 259 11.9 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 260 11.10 Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 260 11.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 267 11.12 Packing of Skin Moisturizers 268 Glossary of Terms 269 Acronyms 270 References 270 12 Products for Aging 275 Learning Objectives 275 Key Concepts 276 12.1 Introduction 277 12.2 Changes in Skin Structure and Function During Aging 277 12.3 Drug or Cosmetic? 281 12.4 Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Antiaging Products 282 12.5 Formulation Considerations of Topical Antiaging Products 287 12.6 Formulation Challenges of Common Antiaging Ingredients 290 12.7 Safety Concerns Regarding the Use of Topical Noninvasive Antiaging Ingredients 291 12.8 Packing of Antiaging Products 293 Glossary of Terms 293 Abbreviations 294 References 295 13 Products for Acne 301 Learning Objectives 301 Key Concepts 302 13.1 Introduction 302 13.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Pilosebaceous Unit 303 13.3 Development of Acne 304 13.4 Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 307 13.5 Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 309 13.6 Formulation Considerations 314 13.7 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 315 13.8 Packaging of Anti-Acne Products 316 Glossary of Terms 316 Abbreviations 317 References 317 14 Skin Lightening Products 323 Learning Objectives 323 Key Concepts 324 14.1 Introduction 325 14.2 Skin Color and Production of Melanin 325 14.3 Common Hyperpigmention Lesions 327 14.4 History of Using Skin Lightening Products 329 14.5 Drug or Cosmetic? 329 14.6 How Skin Lightening Products May Affect the Skin 330 14.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 331 14.8 Typical Ingredients used in Skin Lightening Products 331 14.9 Formulation Considerations and Challenges for Topical Skin Lightening Products 334 14.10 Important Considerations When Using Skin Lightening Products 335 14.11 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Lightening Formulations 336 14.12 Evaluation of Skin Lightening Products 336 14.13 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 339 14.14 Packaging of Skin Lightening Products 340 Glossary of Terms 340 Abbreviations 341 References 341 15 Sun Care Products 347 Learning Objectives 347 Key Concepts 348 15.1 Introduction 349 15.2 Sun Protection Basics 350 15.3 Effects of UV Radiation on the Human Body 356 15.4 Types and Definition of Sun Care Products 358 15.5 History of Using Sun Care Products 359 15.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 360 15.7 Sunscreens 361 15.8 After-Sun Products 370 15.9 Typical Quality Problems of Sun Care Products 371 15.10 Evaluation of Sun Care Products 371 15.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 380 15.12 Packaging of Sun Care Products 382 Glossary of Terms 383 Abbreviations 385 References 385 Part 3 Hair Care Products 393 16 Hair Anatomy And Physiology 395 Learning Objectives 395 Key Concepts 396 16.1 Introduction 396 16.2 Structure and Function of Human Hair 397 16.3 Main Characteristics of Human Hair 400 Glossary of Terms 409 Abbreviations 411 References 411 17 Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 413 Learning Objectives 413 Key Concepts 414 17.1 Introduction 415 17.2 Types and Definition of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 415 17.3 History of Using Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 416 17.4 How Hair Cleaning and Conditioning Products May Affect the Hair and Scalp 416 17.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 418 17.6 Hair Cleansing Products 419 17.7 Hair Conditioners 426 17.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 430 17.9 Evaluation of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 430 17.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 432 17.11 Packaging of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 433 Glossary of Terms 433 Abbreviations 434 References 434 18 Hair Styling Products Hair Straightening Products and Hair Waving Products 439 Learning Objectives 439 Key Concepts 441 18.1 Introduction 442 18.2 Types and Definition of Hair Styling Hair Straightening and Hair Waving Products 442 18.3 History of Using Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 443 18.4 How Hair Styling Products and Procedures May Affect the Hair and Scalp 444 18.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 446 18.6 Hair Styling Products 447 18.7 Hair Styling Procedures 452 18.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 460 18.9 Evaluation of Hair Styling Hair Waving  and Hair Straightening Products 461 18.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 465 18.11 Packaging of Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 468 Glossary of Terms 468 Abbreviations 470 References 470 19 Hair Coloring Products 475 Learning Objectives 475 Key Concepts 476 19.1 Introduction 477 19.2 Types and Definition of Hair Coloring Products 477 19.3 History of Using Hair Coloring Products 478 19.4 How Hair Coloring Products May Affect the Scalp and Hair 479 19.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 481 19.6 Current US Regulation of Hair Dyes 481 19.7 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Hair Coloring Products 482 19.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Coloring Products 489 19.9 Evaluation of Hair Coloring Products 490 19.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 490 19.11 Packaging of Hair Coloring Products 492 Glossary of terms 492 Abbreviations 494 References 494 Part 4 Color Cosmetics 497 20 Lip Makeup Products 499 Learning Objectives 499 Key Concepts 500 20.1 Introduction 501 20.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Lips 501 20.3 History of Using Lip Makeup Products 503 20.4 Types and Definition of Lip Makeup Products 504 20.5 How Lip Makeup Products May Affect the Lips 505 20.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 506 20.7 Typical Ingredients of Lip Makeup Products 506 20.8 Common Types of Lip Makeup Products 509 20.9 Formulation of Lip Makeup Products 511 20.10 Typical Quality Issues of Lip Makeup Products 515 20.11 Evaluation of Lip Makeup Products 517 20.12 Ingredient Causing Safety Concerns 519 20.13 Packaging of Lip Makeup Products 520 Glossary of Terms 520 Abbreviations 522 References 522 21 Eye Makeup Products 525 Learning Objectives 525 Key Concepts 526 21.1 Introduction 527 21.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Eyelids and Eyelashes 527 21.3 History of Using Eye Makeup Products 528 21.4 Types and Definition of Eye Makeup Products 529 21.5 How Eye Makeup Products May Affect the Eye Area 530 21.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 532 21.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Eye Makeup Products 533 21.8 Typical Quality Issues of Eye Makeup Products 541 21.9 Evaluation of Eye Makeup Products 543 21.10 Safety Testing of Eye Cosmetics 547 21.11 Packaging of Eye Makeup Products 548 Glossary of Terms 549 Abbreviations 550 References 550 22 Facial Makeup Products 553 Learning Objectives 553 Key Concepts 554 22.1 Introduction 555 22.2 Types and Definition of Facial Makeup Products 555 22.3 History of Using Facial Makeup Products 556 22.4 How Facial Makeup Products May Affect the Skin 557 22.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 559 22.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Facial Makeup Products 559 22.7 Typical Quality Issues of Facial Makeup Products 567 22.8 Evaluation of Facial Makeup Products 568 22.9 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 568 22.10 Packaging of Facial Makeup Products 570 Glossary of Terms 570 Abbreviations 571 References 571 23 Nail Care Products 575 Learning Objectives 575 Key Concepts 576 23.1 Introduction 577 23.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Nails 577 23.3 History of Using Nail Care Products 579 23.4 Types and Definition of Nail Care Products 580 23.5 How Nail Care Products May Affect the Human Nails 581 23.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 583 23.7 Functional Nail Care Products 583 23.8 Decorative Nail Care Products 585 23.9 Nail Polish Removers 593 23.10 Typical Quality Issues of Nail Care Products 594 23.11 Evaluation of Nail Care Products 595 23.12 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 598 23.13 Packaging of Nail Care Products 600 Glossary of Terms 601 Abbreviations 602 References 602 Part 5 Additional Personal Care Products 607 24 Oral and Dental Care Products 609 Learning Objectives 609 Key Concepts 610 24.1 Introduction 611 24.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Human Oral Cavity 612 24.3 Review of the Most Common Oral and Dental Care Problems 613 24.4 History of Using Oral and Dental Care Products 617 24.5 Types and Definition of Oral and Dental Care Products 618 24.6 How Oral and Dental Care Products May Affect the Teeth and the Oral Cavity 619 24.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 620 24.8 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Oral and Dental Care Products 621 Glossary of Terms 640 Abbreviations 641 References 642 25 Hair Removal Products 647 Learning Objectives 647 Key Concepts 648 25.1 Introduction 649 25.2 Review of the Structure and Function of Human Hair 649 25.3 History of Using Hair Removal Methods 651 25.4 Possible Methods for Removing Hair 652 25.5 Types and Definition of Hair Removal Products 656 25.6 How Hair Removal Products May Affect the Skin and Hair 657 25.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 659 25.8 Types Typical Ingredients  and Formulation of Hair Removal Products 660 25.9 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Removal Products 671 25.10 Evaluation of Hair Removal Products 671 25.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 672 25.12 Packaging of Hair Removal Products 673 Glossary of Terms 673 Abbreviations 674 References 674 26 Deodorants and Antiperspirants 677 Learning Objectives 677 Key Concepts 678 26.1 Introduction 679 26.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Sweat Glands 679 26.3 Types and Definition of Products Reducing Body Odor 682 26.4 History of Using Deodorants and Antiperspirants 683 26.5 How Deodorants and Antiperspirants May Affect the Human Skin and Body 684 26.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 685 26.7 The Mechanism of Action of Deodorant and Antiperspirant Ingredients 685 26.8 Most Common Product Forms of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 687 26.9 Formulation of Deodorant and Antiperspirant Products 691 26.10 Typical Quality Issues of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 692 26.11 Evaluation of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 694 26.12 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 696 26.13 Packaging of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 698 Glossary of Terms 699 Abbreviations 700 References 700 27 Baby Care Products 705 Learning Objectives 705 Key Concepts 706 27.1 Introduction 707 27.2 Anatomical and Physiological Differences Between Baby and Adult Skin and Hair 707 27.3 Types and Definition of Baby Care Products 710 27.4 History of Using Baby Care Products 711 27.5 How Baby Care Products May Affect Baby Skin Hair and Eyes 711 27.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 714 27.7 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Baby Care Products 714 27.8 Typical Quality Issues of Baby Care Products 722 27.9 Evaluation of Baby Care Products 722 27.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 723 27.11 Packaging of Baby Care Products 724 Glossary of Terms 725 Abbreviations 725 References 726 28 Feminine Hygiene Products 731 Learning Objectives 731 Key Concepts 732 28.1 Introduction 733 28.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Female Genital Area 733 28.3 Types and Definition of Feminine Hygiene Products 736 28.4 History of Using Feminine Hygiene Products 738 28.5 How Feminine Hygiene Products May Affect the Human Body and Female Genital Area 739 28.6 Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 741 28.7 Types Typical Ingredients  and Formulation of Feminine Hygiene Products 741 28.8 Typical Quality Issues of Feminine Hygiene Products 748 28.9 Evaluation of Feminine Hygiene Products 748 28.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 749 28.11 Packaging of Feminine Hygiene Products 750 Glossary of Terms 751 Abbreviations 752 References 752 29 Sunless Tanning Products 757 Learning Objectives 757 Key Concepts 758 29.1 Introduction 758 29.2 Types and Definition of Sunless Tanning Products 759 29.3 History of Using Sunless Tanning Products 759 29.4 How Sunless Tanners May Affect the Human Body 760 29.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 762 29.6 Types and Typical Ingredients of Sunless Tanning Products 762 29.7 Formulation Considerations 765 29.8 Typical Quality Problems of Sunless Tanners 767 29.9 Evaluation of Sunless Tanners 767 29.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 768 29.11 Packaging of Sunless Tanning Products 769 Glossary of Terms 769 Abbreviations 770 References 770 Index 773