Divided Spirits

Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production

Sarah Bowen

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English

University of California Press
01 October 2015

Food & society; Social & cultural anthropology; Spirits & cocktails

Series: California Studies in Food and Culture

Divided Spirits tells the stories of tequila and mezcal, two of Mexico’s most iconic products. In doing so, the book illustrates how neoliberalism influences the production, branding, and regulation of local foods and drinks. It also challenges the strategy of relying on “alternative” markets to protect food cultures and rural livelihoods.

In recent years, as consumers increasingly demand to connect with the people and places that produce their food, the concept of terroir—the taste of place—has become more and more prominent. Tequila and mezcal are both protected by denominations of origin (DOs), legal designations that aim to guarantee a product’s authenticity based on its link to terroir. Advocates argue that the DOs expand market opportunities, protect cultural heritage, and ensure the reputation of Mexico’s national spirits. Yet this book shows how the institutions that are supposed to guard “the legacy of all Mexicans” often fail those who are most in need of protection: the small producers, agave farmers, and other workers who have been making tequila and mezcal for generations. The consequences—for the quality and taste of tequila and mezcal, and for communities throughout Mexico—are stark.

Divided Spirits suggests that we must move beyond market-based models if we want to safeguard local products and the people who make them. Instead, we need systems of production, consumption, and oversight that are more democratic, more inclusive, and more participatory. Lasting change is unlikely without the involvement of the state and a sustained commitment to addressing inequality and supporting rural development.

By: Sarah Bowen
Imprint: University of California Press
Country of Publication: United States
Volume: 56
Dimensions: Height: 229mm, Width: 152mm, Spine: 18mm
Weight: 318g
ISBN: 9780520281059
ISBN 10: 0520281055
Series: California Studies in Food and Culture
Pages: 280
Publication Date: 01 October 2015
Audience: College/higher education , Further / Higher Education
Format: Paperback
Publisher's Status: Active

List of Illustrations Acknowledgments Abbreviations 1. The Promise of Place 2. From the Fields to Your Glass 3. Whose Rules Rule? Creating and Defining Tequila Quality 4. The Heart of the Agave: Farming in Tequila Country 5. Making Mezcal in the Shadow of the Denomination of Origin 6. Hipsters, Hope, and the Future of Artisanal Mezcal 7. Looking Forward Methodological Appendix Notes Works Cited Index

Sarah Bowen is Associate Professor of Sociology at North Carolina State University.

Reviews for Divided Spirits: Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production

There is not much published about the two iconic Mexican spirits, except for consumer books and tasting guides to different brands. Bowen's perspective is fresh and thought-provoking. -- Fabio Parasecoli The Huffington Post This is far from a breezy read, and that's exactly the point. In today's spirits landscape, where a new celebrity tequila brand seems to launch each month and mezcal has gone viral, it's rare that we pause to consider the consequences of our adoration ... Offers an exhaustively researched, academic look at the forces that threaten these two great spirits that should be essential reading for anyone with an interest in protecting all that makes them great. Punch