ACT - Adjunct compensatory Training for rock climbers

Volker Schöffl, Patrick Matros, Dicki (Ludwig) Korb

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English

Tredition Gmbh
13 March 2020

Gambling: theories & methods; American football; Active outdoor pursuits; Outdoor survival skills

"ACT - Adjunct compensatory Training for rock climbers: climbers' compensation training with a medical foundation Adjunct compensatory Training focuses on training the neglected muscle slings and innervation patterns within their specific range of motion, building up posture and core strength as well as balancing the athletic build of the body. The ACT concept was inspired by our long-time cooperation with high-level athletes. We combine our sports-medical and trainings-methodical knowledge to effectively prevent injuries and overstrain. Volker Schöffl, as the MD in the group, analyses the body from a sports-medical and biomechanical point of view. With his vast knowledge of climbing injuries (Volker Schöffl, Thomas Hochholzer, Sam Lightner Jr. ""One Move Too Many"") and as a highly active avid climber, he understands why certain conditions could and do lead to injuries in the long-term. Dicki and Patrick are world-renowned climbing trainers and coaches. Coming from a top-level climbing background themselves, they focus on climbing-specific training (""Gimme Kraft"", ""Kraftfactory"") and biomechanical analysis of climbing. Weaknesses in certain climbers which can be reduced through specific and adjunct training are frequently revealed by the biomechanical aspects. Combining our two fields of expertise, we have collaborated to create Adjunct compensatory Training, which aims to rebuild neglected range of motion in muscle slings and to improve neuromuscular innervation patterns. Thus, it will help you to better withstand specific climbing training and reduce injury and the risk of overexertion. The ACT concept was born in 2015 and has been consistently developed further within our group since then. In our daily work with both elite athletes and ""normal"" climbers, we perpetually evaluated, restructured and remodelled our exercises, structuring and fine-tuning a program which we find most effective."

By: Volker Schöffl, Patrick Matros, Dicki (Ludwig) Korb
Imprint: Tredition Gmbh
Dimensions: Height: 210mm, Width: 148mm, Spine: 5mm
Weight: 122g
ISBN: 9783347029347
ISBN 10: 3347029348
Pages: 94
Publication Date: 13 March 2020
Audience: General/trade , ELT Advanced
Format: Paperback
Publisher's Status: Active

"Volker Schöffl, MD, PhD, MHBA, FAWM, is senior physician at the Department of Sports Medicine and Sports Orthopedics in Bamberg, Germany. He is adjunct professor of trauma and orthopedic surgery at the FAU Erlangen-Nuremberg and adjoint assistant professor of emergency medicine at the University of Colorado School of Medicine. He is also a visiting professor to the Leeds Becket University in the UK. His scientific focus is on climbing and ski mountaineering injuries and biomechanics of the hand. He is the team doctor for the German Climbing Team, the German Ski Mountaineering Team, the German Paraclimbing Team and a member of MedCom UIAA and IFSC. He serves as a consultant doctor to the Adidas Terrex International Outdoor team. His book ""One Move Too Many"" is the most valued book on climbing medicine, already available in five languages with Chinese and Japanese translations currently in progress. Patrick Matros is a lecturer for sport and educational science as well as for various sports at the State Institute for Teachers Education in Bayreuth, Germany. He has a master's degree in sport and educational sciences and is a certified sports therapist, certified athletic trainer and member of the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Patrick is the author of several specialist sport and education books and articles, including the worldwide bestseller ""Gimme Kraft!"", co-authored with Dicki Korb. Together, they have trained athletes at the Federal Center of Sportclimbing in Nuremberg for several years and currently coach climbing team members of Adidas Terrex Outdoor. Dicki (Ludwig) Korb is a sport climbing and functional-fitness trainer, therapist and pedagogue. He has been climbing for 33 years and has gathered 18 years of expertise in climbing training with a variety of the best athletes in this sport. The world-renowned training book ""Gimme Kraft"" written together with Patrick Matros is a collection of climbing training expertise based on their various long-term activities as coaches. Dicki and Patrick both work providing training for all kinds of climbing related athletes all over the world. Dicki is part of the education team in the German climbing federation and consulting coach for the German Climbing Team."